Custom Knives Made in Idaho

Design Your Own Knife

I can deliver pre-made knives like the ones you see on these pages. Or, I will make yours to order—that is, you design and I'll build your custom knife. They are all unique. Just use the photos and the guides below to get ideas, then call or e-mail me to discuss your new knife.

Every one of my knives comes with a certificate of authenticety, describing your particular knife and the story of Gerten's forge and Frank Gerten.

THREE WAYS TO GET THE KNIFE YOU WANT

Select and order a style shown on this site.
Mix and match handles and blades. Specify materials, colors, size and shape.
Or you can send me a sketch or photo of a knife you like and I will build it for you.

You will need to decide on certain features:
Grip... Base material, inlays, color, edge finish (& hand size if very large).
Blade. Length, thickness, material, finish and edge work.

Choosing a knife!
Choosing a knife - First thing to consider, on picking a knife best suited for your needs before purchasing are balance, grip, blade strength, and sharpness.

Balance
Balance - This is probably the most crucial consideration for picking a knife. The engineering of a good knife will have the weight balanced between the handle and the blade. Whenever a knife does not have the weight evenly distributed then the knife will feel awkward and will be somewhat difficult to use. A well constructed knife will have the tang extended to the end of the handle (The tang is the portion of the blade that extends to the knife handle).

Grip
Grip - With every knife you own you want to feel safe and secure upon usage of the product. Therefore over the past few years manufacturers have both studied and developed new ergonomic and non-slip handles for everyday use. These new modifications have and will greatly reduce injury and fatigue, as well as offer you the best comfort with every task.

Blade Strength
Blade Strength - Manufacturers have two ways of developing their blades which are either forged or stamped. The process of creating a forged blade is by placing a heated lump of steel under a drop hammer and compressing the steel under extreme pressure. Once this process is completed then the blade is ground and honed into a finished product. Stamped blades are developed differently by using either dies or molds, which several of these blades are stamped from a single sheet of steel and then ground and honed to the finished product. Many consumers and collectors will agree that forging is more expensive but consider this type of construction is a more sturdier and higher-quality knife.

Click on Blades and Handles Link to see what it would look like for your knives. Photo's may differ from actual material somewhat as gradients in wood shades, gemstones and antlers are unique.

GRIP

Inlay

Bolster

Edge

Cocobolo

Turquoise

Silver

Stick Tang

Kingwood

Lapiz Lazuli

Pure Brass

Full Tang-Smooth

Ebony (several)

Azurite/Malachite

Stainless Steel

Full Tang-Filed

Rosewood

Other Stone

Forged Steel

A Tang is the part of the knife that the handle is either attached to or runs inside of. A stick tang runs inside the handle and can not be seen from the outside. A full tang is the same shape as the handle and the handle is attached to its sides. Many antler handles are stick tang where on a full tang it is normal to attach handle "slabs" of material.

Afr. Blackwood

Ivory

Nickel/Silver

Tropical Passionwood-Dymondwood

Antler

Tulipwood

Brass

Dymondwood (several)

Nickel

Laminated Black Linen

Silver

Padauk

Other Alloy

Ziricote

Other Wood

Applewood

Other very hard wood

Antler

EDGING INTO A BLADE

Clip Point Blade
Clip Point - A clip point blade has an area of the blade cut-out of the top of the tip. This allows for better sharpness and control of your blade. These types of blades usually feature a larger belly on the blade for better slicing abilities.

Drop Point Blade
Drop Point - A drop point blade has a tip which lowers slightly to the tip of the blade. Along with the Clip Point blade this blade also usually features a larger belly on the blade for better slicing abilities.

Tanto Blade
Tanto - The major purpose of this style of blade is that the tip of the blade is aligned with the straight forward spine of the blade. Which allows for the tip of the blade to have a thick strong spine support. These types of blades have many styles some you may encounter in our store.

Dagger / Double Edge
Dagger/Double Edge - A double edge blade has been sharpened on both sides which leads to a sharpened point.

Hook Blade
Hook Blade - A hook blade curves with the sharpened area on the concave side.

Scimitar Blade
Scimitar - A scimitar blade curves with the sharpened area on the convex side.

Sheepsfoot Blade
Sheepsfoot - The top or "spine" of this blade type curves downward to meet the sharpened tip of this blade. With this design the tip of the blade generally has no sharpened point, for this design is mostly used for slicing.

Spear Point Blade
Spear Point - A spear point blade has a spine in the center of the full blade which travels down to the sharpened point of the blade. Both sides of this design are usually sharpened depending on the manufacturer specs.

Trailing Point Blade
Trailing Point - A trailing point blade is designed with a larger than average belly best used for slicing. The blades point is generally higher than the spine of each blade so that the point does not create a henderence while in use.

Santuko
Santuko - A santuko is known as a Japanese chefs knife. Widely used and best known for its curved spine which curves downward to the edge with a slightly curved belly.

Hawkbill Blade
Hawkbill - A blade shaped with a sharply curved hook, rather like a talon. The inside edge of the curve is where the sharpened cutting edge is located.

Length	Steel	Shape	Finish	Tang Edge
Specify	Stainless	Sweep Tip	Polished	File work
	Damascus	Small Sweep Tip	Satin	Smooth
		Drop Point
		Small Bowie
		Bowie
		Gut hook